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2004 F150 Heritage (dedicated) no start

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  • 2004 F150 Heritage (dedicated) no start

    I'm replacing the expired tanks in the bed on my sons 2004 F150 (65,000 miles) (dedicated CNG) with a newer Worthington tank I bought on eBay for $250. I have cut off all the weldments on the bottom of the main plate, transfer drilled the mounting holes from the orginal brackets, and welded shims for the new mounting holes.

    I routed the fuel line thru the bed with a bulkhead elbow. (it fits really nice).

    Now the truck will crank but will not start. I did notice it was idling a little rough when cold before I opened up the fuel line to reroute the plumbing thru the bed. It will run poorly using starting fluid.

    Any ideas what I should look for?

  • #2
    The truck started an hour later. I must have flooded it with the starter fluid after it failed to start normally.

    Is there any special procedure for starting a CNG vehicle after the fuel line is depressurized?


    • #3
      Hi, I just bought a 2004 F-150 Heritage XL CNG. I am only getting 150-160 miles of range. I thought it's supposed to get over 300 mile on a full tank(s). I read somewhere that may be one of the tank has been shut off, but I want to check with you to see what rang you're getting on your 2004.


      • #4
        If you are low on fuel then do a fast fill up the tanks should increase in temperature . If only one increases the other one probably is the problem.


        • #5
          Glad it ended up starting. You actually do have to prime these in some respects. There is a shrader valve under the hood that connects into the fuel rails, or at least on my 97 it does. Bleeding the 10 feet of air in the lines out of the system until you get gas coming out the shrader valve will give a less painful starting sequence. Now that it is running it will probably be just fine. i fabricated a long metal rod with the end bent a bent slightly and ground down to a point which makes it easy to reach in to access the shader valve. Its also very useful for bleeding the pressure from the system prior to working on it. Seems the regulated pressure is around 100 or so PSI at the valve.