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2010 Civic GX bad tank valve

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  • 2010 Civic GX bad tank valve

    Hey Everyone,

    Looking for options on getting this fixed. Car is not starting and no CEl light on. Appears to be the tank valve, the valve itself is not doing anything when the ignition is turned on, it makes a faint click, and then doesn't allow the car to start. It has 12 volts to it the moment the car ignition is turned on, then it drops of 12 volts after a few seconds (normal). If I manually put 12 volts to the solenoid then it makes a faint clicking sound, but not what you normally hear when turning the ignition on (The loud thunking sound).

    I already did the AFC tank valve swap on my 01 GX.

    Any options that I can do without taking the tank end cap off? Can I use an over ride tool and put an AFC external? Anyone know where I can get the over ride tool if it works?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Removing/ changing the valve is an all day project the first time. You have to bled the tank and also remove the tank to get the valve out. That's after you find the replacement valve and the bleeder valve. Where do you live ?

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    • #3
      In California, already did the 01 GX with the AFC, do you know if the over ride tool will allow permanent flow to an external AFC valve without tank removal?

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      • #4
        In the past I have had some problems with sticking valves and have been able to get them working again. At least when referring to the GFI valve as used in GM vehicles (and others) a couple of tricks got them going. The "faint" clicking sound is the solenoid opening a pilot valve. That valve (as far as I can determine) provides pressure to the main valve causing it to open. If the main valve isn't opening, you just hear a click, not a thunk. My opinion is that either corrosion or solidified oil that has gotten into the system has caused the main valve to stick. What I did was remove the fuel line from the fill receptacle and fill the line with a penetrating oil---like "Breakfree" or WD-40, If you don't have access to a fueling station where the car is located, you need to get it to one to complete the process. You have to re-assemble the line and then add fuel to the vehicle. Only add the minimum fuel need to purge the oil out of the line and force it into the tank valve. The reason for this is you may need to repeat the process more than once. If the tank is already completely full this won't work. After about a minute, disconnect the fueling station from the car and turn on the ignition. If you don't hear the thunk, cycle the ignition a couple of times. Try and start the vehicle, if it starts, fine. If it doesn't start, repeat the whole process starting by filling the line with oil. On my worst "stuck" valve it took three attempts to free it up---the other times this process worked the first time.

        This is only a last resort process to attempt to get the valve working. The fact that you hear a click when you turn the key means the solenoid coil is working at not shorted (another GFI valve problem) so chances are that if you get some oil into the valve it will clear up the problem. If you are successful in getting the valve to work you may want to repeat the cleaning after a few months to insure the valve will continue to work. If you are not comfortable with working on the high pressure system or don't have the mechanical ability to do this work, take it to someone who can. As far as the "over ride tool" is concerned this is a one time tool to vent the tank. All ports would be under pressure at all times after the tool destroys the valve internally. I know the Honda is plumbed a little different than other systems but I don't think an external valve is the answer. When it comes to messing with these systems, I feel comfortable with working on just about any aspect of the system. However, I draw the line at removing the tank valve from the tank. That's best left up to someone else who values their life less than I do. Bad things happen and with a known problem valve like you have, it would be foolish to try to change the valve.

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