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2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

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  • #61
    Re: Fuel Filter Issue on 2006 and newer GX-Permanent Price Reduction !

    If you're looking for instructions... look a few posts back from yours. There are video's posted that walk you through it.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]temp_4586_1441434431016_578[/ATTACH]

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    • #62
      Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

      Originally posted by graure View Post
      I just got the B1 coming soon notice at 16.5K miles; I live and work pretty far away from the Midas in Lomita, so I called a couple dealers in the Los Angeles SGV area (seems like many of us in this subforum are in LA).

      Sierra Honda in Monrovia: $175 for the low pressure filter, $150 for the high pressure filter - $325+tax for both
      Goudy Honda in Alhambra: $147.50 for each filter; just draining the high pressure filter would be $105 so they recommended just replacing it since the cost difference isn't big. $295+tax for both filters.
      Norm Reeves Honda in West Covina: $270+tax to replace the low pressure filter and drain/clean the high pressure filter (I assume it's probably around $40 more to just replace the high pressure filter), so ~$310 to replace both.

      All the dealerships seem to have pretty similar pricing. It seems like the cheapest/easiest thing to do would be to replace the high pressure filter yourself, since by all accounts it's the easy one, then taking it somewhere to do the low pressure filter if you live too far from Midas. Or alternatively if you live close or have a lot of time, buying the filters yourself from a discount Honda parts site ($82.57 shipped from Hondapartsunlimited) then bringing them to Midas for about a $100 saving over going to a dealership.

      Update 5/30/14: Out of curiosity, I just called Midas in Lomita and got quoted $245 to replace both filters, $150 if I purchased them myself.
      Update 6/4/14: 16.6k miles; I ordered the high and low pressure filters from Hondapartsunlimited with the intention of changing out the low pressure myself and bringing the discounted high pressure filter to Goudy Honda to replace. When I opened up the low pressure drain nut, there was absolutely zero sign of any oil in there. I removed the housing and the filter looks absolutely pristine - the bottom hard plastic fins that are supposed to be touching the oil were completely dry and the only sign of any wetness on the drain nut was from the grease used to seal it. My primary stations are the CE station in downtown Los Angeles and the Socalgas station in Azusa. I don't think there's even a point in checking the high pressure filter earlier than 30K miles. I'm going to take the car in to the dealer to do the low pressure filter and ask to see the filter when they replace it, hopefully it'll be similarly clean!
      Does anybody have any quotes from Orange County dealerships? I called OC Hondaworld in Westminster and they quoted me $249 for the low pressure filter and $189 for the high pressure filter. Buena Park Honda doesn't work on CNG cars, and I'm waiting for Freeway and Harden Honda to get back with me since their service guys had no idea. My car is approaching 30k miles so this will be the first time I've changed any of the filters. Who do you OC guys use and what ballpark price should I expect?? Thanks

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      • #63
        Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

        To those of you on this sticky who have asked about instructions about doing it yourself, please see this thread:

        http://www.cngchat.com/forum/showthr...r-update-(sad)

        If you bend anything, Honda will not even try to change your filter in the future. Instead they will tell you to replace your regulator, a $2800 repair.

        I'd think twice before buying a Gx again...

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        • #64
          Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

          I still believe if you follow the instructions I posted and using the correct tools, changing the filters yourself is a breeze. The root cause of the damage is application of side load while turning.

          http://www.cngchat.com/forum/showthr...9376#post69376

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          • #65
            Re: 2006 and up-fuel filter issue resolved

            Before replacing the regulator, Removing the existing regulator from the car and trying on the bench , I'd bet money nothing is wrong with the regulator itself, just a stuck, bent filter housing. The housing is very expensive, but a whole lot less than the regulator

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            • #66
              Re: 2006 and up-fuel filter issue resolved

              getting ready to do my 2012 for first time with around 12k miles and B1 minder coming up. I will replace low and drain high but order new of both in case the high has a bunch of oil in it. Otherwise I will save it for 30k. I did both for my 2001 many times with no issues so hope this goes the same. Thanks to all that contributed and took the time to make those great videos.

              my own 2 cents: I don't understand why someone wouldn't replace orings, very easy and OEM new is going to be better than old in every scenario I can think of. Also, I agree bending the housing is a result of wrong tools/improper application of force. Even if it is stuck hard and you went nuts with torque (hit it with an impact gun) to undo it I don't think you would bend it that way as long as the torque is applied centered on the axis of the housing. (I know... easier said than done... and I have fungled up my share of bearings, nuts, seals, parts doing dumb stuff when dealing with stuck parts) Also, I would be nervous putting a bent housing back on, I know it is low pressure (around 100 psi I think?) but I would personally replace that part if I bent it that way and pay the piper. Pressure vessels are worth using extra caution on, especially ones that hold flammable and explosive gas. Replacing the regulator is an over reaction by Honda IMO and maybe a slap on the hand rather than a logical repair.

              Update, both filters shipped to Los Angeles from Bernardi were ~$90
              Last edited by Donny; 08-21-2015, 02:43 PM.

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              • #67
                Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

                Originally posted by bmwzimmer View Post
                I still believe if you follow the instructions I posted and using the correct tools, changing the filters yourself is a breeze. The root cause of the damage is application of side load while turning.

                http://www.cngchat.com/forum/showthr...9376#post69376
                Yup, and every case I have heard of with bent housing was found when a "pro" was the last person to touch it. The thing is tricky to get sealed, and a lot of wrench monkeys still try to fix a leak by application of force . Sad ,but a lot are butt heads, not professional technicians.

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                • #68
                  Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

                  Originally posted by Lakewood90712 View Post
                  Yup, and every case I have heard of with bent housing was found when a "pro" was the last person to touch it. The thing is tricky to get sealed, and a lot of wrench monkeys still try to fix a leak by application of force . Sad ,but a lot are butt heads, not professional technicians.
                  In my case I used the correct tools, just bad luck. It was the first change, so 'factory-tightened', which was way too much.

                  After all of the crap that Honda Corporate put me through, scaring me that the regulator was bending, etc, and failing to take responsibility for their design, I decided to put the car up on ramps and give it a go myself again. The low pressure filter housing came off like butter! (I used the same tools I used 2 years ago - 24mm socket + a couple of extensions with a knuckle).
                  No movement of the regulator whatsoever.

                  Maybe the honda dealer loosened it for me?

                  The new ($400) housing + o-ring even slipped on easier than before...

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by bmwzimmer View Post
                    Re: 2006 and newer fuel filter issue $$$

                    I still believe if you follow the instructions I posted and using the correct tools, changing the filters yourself is a breeze. The root cause of the damage is application of side load while turning.

                    http://www.cngchat.com/forum/showthr...9376#post69376
                    I agree that side loading is definitely a no no. Using any tools while attempting to start the threads is a good way to cross thread the canister. It needs to be well frozen before applying plenty of grease on the o-ring & threads. Tighten it by hand until it seats, then you can put a socket on it to snug it the rest of the way.
                    Last edited by cngtrouble; 06-16-2016, 09:40 PM.

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                    • #70
                      That custom low pressure housing with drain is the best thing I have seen in Years.

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                      • #71
                        Carl Jennings at CNG Consulting of California (jennings804@yahoo.com) has developed an upgrade low pressure filter housing with a hex nut that's even better than his first version highlighted in Brian's video. I posted a long video explaining how to change both filters and showed what the latest replacement housing looks like. See the link to the video below:
                         

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                        • #72
                          Another big help when dealing with the OEM filter housing is to make sure and use the special Honda socket made to loosen the housing without cocking sideways on the hex nut.
                          Socket.png
                          Attached Files

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