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2012+ Fuel Filter Change in < 1 hr

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  • 2012+ Fuel Filter Change in < 1 hr

    My car hit 30K miles and I was quoted anywhere from $300 to $4XX at various dealerships in the Orange county, CA area to change both Low and High Pressure filters. I was considering just letting them do it but dropping the car off and waiting 2-4 hours but I figure I should do it myself to save a few bucks. The biggest concern was the Low pressure filter being difficult to remove and re-install from what I read and saw on youtube.
    The Youtube videos from cngchat member bestinlife really helped for his 2009 Civic. Below are references to his videos. Mine is a 2012 which is slightly different from the other videos I've seen so far on youtube. Look for "***" on any differences between 2012+ and the previous generation Civics.

    REFERENCE

    High pressure fuel filter
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6zS9iyemX0

    Low pressure fuel filter
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNN2S4WtSCc




    High Pressure Filter - The bottom tray of the 2012+ Civics differ slightly from the video of the 2009 Civic above. There are no underbody panels to remove on the rear. Everything is accessible once the car is jacked up or on ramps.

    TOOLS/EQUIPMENT
    1.) Adjustable wrench to remove the filter canister
    2.) Ramps or Jack. And stoppers for the Front wheels
    3.) 16905-S1G-003 High Pressure Filter element
    4.) O-ring grease is optional. I had some lying around (for my scuba diving flashlight O-rings)
    5.) 7mm Allen wrench or socket head to attach to wrench to remove the drain plug (For draining only. If you replace, you don't need to remove the drain screw)

    PROCEDURE (20-30 minutes)
    1.) Jack up the car, apply E Brake, & put stoppers in the front wheels.
    2.) Shut off the fuel valve
    3.) Start the Car and let it Run for about a minute and it will die. Remove Keys.
    4.) *** I was expecting to have to remove the panel as described in the video but there is no panel to remove. Everything is fully and easily accessible. See Attachment 1
    5.) Place rags underneath filter canister. See Attachment 2
    6.) If you need to just Drain the HP Filter (every 10K miles), use a 7mm Hex Allen wrench to remove the drain plug. Since I only pump gas at Clean Energy stations, I assumed there is little oil in the compressors so I'm only changing both filters at 30K miles and never bother draining.
    7.) Remove Filter Canister using an Adjustable Wrench (For the first time doing this, it will take a little extra torque because Honda put spot of blue epoxy in between the canister and housing so when you first remove it, the epoxy cracks off. The next time removing it will be easier)
    8.) Pull Out and replace filter element and O-Ring.
    9.) Clean and Reinstall Filter Housing and or drain plug to recommended factory torque settings
    10.) Turn on Fuel Valve and check for leaks
    11.) Start Car

    In my case, the element and housing were spotless but I replaced it anyways. I did not replace the O-ring because it looked to be in good shape. I'll definitely replace it next time when the car hits 60K miles. The most time consuming part for me was getting the car lined up and on rhino ramps. There's plenty of room to work with and this should be a job anyone can do themselves.


    Low Pressure Filter - Was worried about this one but I found a trick that should reduce the time and difficulty to install this. It's all about the right tools and a little tape!!

    TOOLS/EQUIPMENT
    1.) Ramps or Jack. And stoppers for the Rear wheels.
    2.) 16905-RNE-A00 High Pressure Filter element
    3.) O-ring grease. I had some lying around (for my scuba diving flashlight O-rings)
    4.) 24mm Socket
    5.) Knuckle
    6.) 18" Socket Extender
    7.) Socket wrench
    8.) Phillips screwdriver
    9.) Tape (painters or masking tape)

    PROCEDURE (20-30 minutes)
    1.) Jack up the car, apply E Brake and rear wheel stoppers
    2.) Turn off Fuel Valve and run car until it dies. Remove keys.
    3.) Remove 4 screws from the bottom steel panel covering the oil drain bolt. Remove by sliding it out.
    4.) Attach the 24mm Socket to the Knuckle. Attach Knuckle to the 18" extender. Attach extender to a socket wrench. See Attachment 3
    5.) Get in there and ensure the 24mm socket is fully inserted into the bolt on the filter canister and loosen the canister a little and then remove the rest of it by hand. NOTE: If you want this to come off easily and not damage your Canister housing. Use a 24mm Socket with Knuckle and 18" extender. It comes off with very very easily and smoothly (if you have the right tools). A 12" extender won't do. Get an 18". If you don't use an extender (like in the video), you might damage the canister since you don't have any room/leverage and might apply upward load when applying torque.
    6.) Pull out and replace Filter element and clean oil left in the canister. In my case, there was very little after 30K miles. Clean Energy provides well... Clean Energy!! (although their fuel is more expensive than other brands, but I have the $3000 gas card incentive when I bought my car) See Attachment 4. You're supposed to change this every 10K miles but here in SoCal, I think I can get a way with every 30K if I continue to use Clean Energy.
    7.) Replace and grease up the O-Rings. In my case, I just used the same old O-Ring. I'll replace it next time.
    8.) *** HERE'S THE TRICK. Attach the 24mm Socket to the Filter Canister and tape them together using painters or masking tape.
    9.) Now when you Screw the Filter canister back in, you do so by pushing on and twist the smaller and easier to grab 24mm socket instead of the filter canister. With this trick, you gain a lot of clearance to full wrap your whole hand around the socket and push/twist. Without this method, you have to try to use your fingers to push and twist rather than fully gripping/holding on to something. It took literally 15 seconds to get it back on. No Freezing required!!! See Attachment 5 (sorry for the bad picture, I took at afterwards the filter was already re-installed and when I realized I forgot to take a picture of it attached to the socket)
    10.) Remove the tape after you get the threads engaged.
    11.) Now attach the socket extender and wrench to to the socket and tighten it to recommended factory settings (it's very low so don't over torque it)
    12.) Reach in the back underneath the car and turn on the fuel valve and check for leaks.
    13.) Start the engine. If good, turn off and re-install the Steel Panel covering and 4 screws.

    BONUS
    Now since the car is already on ramps and I was due for an oil change (B12 service reminder), I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone and change the oil myself (along with the air filter and cabin filter). All previous oil changes up to now have been done at the dealership. I picked up a Fumoto Valve (F-106N and adapter EZ (AL-106) to make future oil change less of a mess. You just need to make sure you put a 14mm factory crush washer (94109-14000) in between the adapter and the tank since the EZ adapter didn't come with one. See attachment 6. Also got a hose to direct the oil from the valve to a bottle (Watts SVIG10 Pre-Cut 1/2-Inch Diameter by 3/8-Inch Clear Vinyl Tubing, 10-Foot Length). The oil is Mobile 1 0W-20 full Synthetic (around $26.XX at Walmart for the 5 qt jug) See attachment 7. The EZ (AL-106) provides some clearance needed to clear the oil tank and allows you to orient the valve to any position/angle you want to easily turn the valve at the next oil change.
    Surprisingly, the Oil change takes longer and is messier than the Low Pressure Filter Change since you have to wait for most of the oil to drip out.
    Finally, Go into your IMID Display's Menus and reset the Maintenance Minder.

    Enjoy!!!

    Disclaimer
    Do this at your own risk. I can not be held responsible if something goes wrong.
    My suggestion is spend $$ and go to a dealer or certified CNG mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by bmwzimmer; 01-18-2015, 01:08 PM.

  • #2
    Re: 2012+ Fuel Filter Change in &lt; 1 hr

    Thank you for the info, on the picture I see that you also put tape around canister, however it seems that this is not needed, can you clarify. I understand that this was first time you change low and high pressure filters on your 2012, is this correct?

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: 2012+ Fuel Filter Change in &lt; 1 hr

      You just have to make sure the Canister is taped to the 24mm socket so it doesnt drop or separate. I used a whole bunch of tape but all you need is alittle
      Yes, my car is at 30k and its the first ever fuel filter change ive ever attempted.

      I did Freeze the canister for about 10 minutes and tried to get it in but failed after 10 minutes of trying. My neck and forearms/fingers were getting sore and I was impatient and didn't want to freeze it for a full hour as others have suggested and came up with this idea instead. the canister got back to room temperature (65F) when i attempted it againwith the tape/socket method... It wouldnt hurt to stick it in the freezer with the socket attached for an even easier installation or if you don't have any grease handy or are struggling.

      Comment


      • #4
        Great write up there bmwzimmer! I did it on my friend's '12 model and had a hard time with new o-ring even thought I froze the ring but not the canister. After struggling with it for about 1 hr., we decided to put the old o-ring back which was fine as we tested with the gas leak detector. It's time to do mine. Will see how it goes. BTW, we did use the 24mm socket with knuckle and extension (18") but we used a Milwaukee battery power impact wrench. With one person holder the socket and extension and me under it with the impact wrench. It came out with some struggles but I felt it's a little safer with the impact wrench then wrenching myself with an extension bar!

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